Cusumano Nero D’Avola Sicilia Doc 2023

Nero d’Avola doesn’t get nearly enough attention, which is a shame because Sicily makes some genuinely good everyday red wine at prices that won’t make you wince.

Cusumano’s 2023 Sicilia DOC is a solid example of what the grape does well. The nose is earthy and savory with dark fruit underneath — blackberry, black plum — plus a whiff of wild fennel that’s a bit unexpected but works.

On the palate it’s blackberry and figs mostly, with a blood orange note and some pepper adding a bit of intrigue. Tannins are firm but polished, and the finish is clean.

It’s medium-to-full bodied with enough structure to stand up to food. This is a wine that wants a plate in front of it — pasta, grilled lamb, a hearty stew. Drink it on its own and it’s fine; drink it with dinner and it’s better.

At $21 this is genuinely good value. Straightforward, honest, and delivers what it promises. Worth having a few in rotation.

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